Over a year has passed since Hurricane María made landfall in Puerto Rico, and the island has been rebuilt almost from the bottom up. With 270 miles of coastland, one of the longest ziplines in the world over a canopy of tropical forest, and a colonial city which is the second-oldest in the Caribbean, Puerto Rico has loads of things to do and see. And with over 4,000 restaurants and eateries, there’s also a lot to taste. To help you navigate the island’s culinary scene, we’ve put together a list of our editor's personal favorites--after all, decisions made easy is what we do.
Old San Juan
After the original choice of a capital city, Caparra, was found to be mosquito- and disease-infested, Juan Ponce de León switched gears and founded San Juan on an islet just off the main island. Paved in distinctive blue cobblestones originally used as ship’s ballast, Viejo San Juan has some of the best-preserved examples of Spanish-Colonial architecture in the Caribbean. For coffee and a quick breakfast, we recommend Café Cuatro Sombras at 259 Recinto Sur Street, which serves locally roasted beans grown in Yauco for a medium-bodied and fruity pour. For lunch or dinner try Verde Mesa at 107 Tetuán Street, where self-taught James Beard Award nominee Chef Gabriel Hernández’s well-executed menu of veg-forward, pescatarian dishes changes according to seasonal availability.
Best Creative Meal – Marmalade
317 Fortaleza Street
Right next door to Trois Cent Onze, Chef Peter Schintler’s credentials speak for themselves, with stints at Le Cirque, La Contea, and Le Manoir Aux Quat-Saisons, as well as having his restaurant, Blu, named one of the top restaurants of the year in 2003. Marmalade highlights seasonal and sustainable local ingredients in its globally influenced dishes, which can be ordered a la carte, or combined into a four-to-six course tasting menu with vegetarian options. Be sure to order the wine pairings, as these are outstanding enough to merit Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for every year in the past decade.
Best Cocktails – La Factoría
148 San Sebastián Street
Named one of the best bars in the world three times already, speakeasy La Factoría is really three bars in one. The wood door by the bar leads to a tiny wine bar called Vino, and El Final, a third space in the back which plays House music on the weekends. This is the flagship of a bar empire, which includes Jungle Bird in La Placita, and Caneca at Lote 23. Fun Fact: part of the video for “Despacito” was filmed here.
Condado & Miramar
The two bridges that exit San Juan lead to either Condado or Miramar, both traditional enclaves for wealthy families since the early twentieth century. Miramar has a clearer sense of historical identity, as it was designated a historical preserve in 2013, thanks to its wide variety of well-preserved architectural styles, including Gothic, Spanish Revival, Bungalows, Raised Cottages, Art Deco, Prairie Style, and Arts & Crafts. For really good pastry, we recommend Lucía Patisserie at 625 Ponce de León Avenue. Though it’s only open for a small window of time on Saturdays, this is the place for some of the best croissants on the island. For breakfast or a light lunch, try Gustos Café a little further down Ponce de León at 954, with local beans from Yauco, Maricao, Lares, and Adjuntas.
Best Fonda – Casita Miramar
605 Miramar Avenue
Fondas are a Puerto Rican institution, mom & pop joints that serve local specialties, just like grandma would make. This sister restaurant to Casita Blanca in Barrio Obrero, an institution for criollo food lovers, Casita Miramar is its slightly fancier cousin. This place is always full, delivering on the promise of delicious food just like your grandma used to make. Menus change according to availability, and are written out on a whiteboard taken to your table, but every visit always starts off with a small complimentary soup and bacalaítos (codfish fritters)…and ends with some chichaíto (rum and anise with three coffee beans, symbolizing health, prosperity, and love).
Best Brunch (and Fried Chicken) – Ariel
801 Ponce de León Avenue
Don’t be fooled by the nondescript entrance through Miramar’s Courtyard Marriott. Chef Ariel Rodríguez serves up classic brunch dishes with sophistication and flair, every Sunday from 11am-3pm. We especially like the wagyu bresaola carpaccio, brisket over a Venezuelan arepa, and the lobster mac-n-cheese. Of course, the real star here is Ariel’s famous fried chicken over cottage cheese and buttermilk waffles, with kielbasa white gravy and peach maple syrup. If you missed brunch, not to worry, Ariel also serves his fried chicken every Thursday and Friday.
Condado has a decidedly more commercial feel, with high-rise apartment buildings, boutiques, small tourist shops, and luxury hotels such as the Condado Vanderbilt, built in 1919 by the same firm responsible for New York’s Grand Central Station. And there are lots of food options as well, like La Bodeguita de Manolo + Sobao on 1369 Ashford Avenue, a combination of a speakeasy-type restaurant and a classic panadería. Condal at 1104 Magdalena Avenue is a good choice for seafood and tapas on its rooftop, Gaudí-inspired bar. Another notable stop is Cocina Abierta at 58 Caribe Street, whose concept focuses around five acts which progress diners from least to most intense flavors. The restaurant also has a workshop area in which interested guests can take cooking courses taught by industry pros, or book private events.
Best Rooftop Bar – O:live Boutique Hotel
55 Aguadilla Street
Right in the heart of Condado with a beautiful view of the lagoon, this hotel’s terrace bar is one of the prettiest in the city. O:live itself is the 2019 winner of the Condé Nast Johansens Best Small and Exclusive Property of Canada, U.S., México, and the Caribbean; with every room featuring outdoor showers and private verandas. Make sure to stop by Sage Loft, the on-site restaurant on the first floor, for Mario Pagán’s interpretations of steakhouse dishes inspired by local flavors and ingredients.
Best Michelin-Starred Dinner – 1919
1055 Ashford Avenue
Nestled in the Condado Vanderbilt hotel, 1919 offers five-star dining with a beautiful view. Chef Juan José Cuevas has impeccable credentials, having been part of teams at Lespinasse, Essex House, and Blue Hill. Menus change seasonally, showcasing local products and impeccable technique, with an excellent wine selection. Desserts come courtesy of Nasha Fondeur (who also has the dessert kiosk at Lote 23)—and are, as expected, delicious.
Santurce
The only district in Puerto Rico that was founded by freed slaves, this neighborhood (which agglomerates a number of smaller areas, such as Barrio Obrero and Loíza) is technically part of the city of San Juan, but has a feel and flavor all its own. Its original name was Cangrejeros (or Crabbers), and this term is still used as both a popular demonym for its residents and as the name of its baseball team. Santurce used to be the commercial hub of San Juan in the forties and fifties, but by the 1970s it had fallen into disrepair.
Efforts to revitalize the area in the early aughts led to a revival of the neighborhood, turning it into a somewhat gritty, arts-filled hipster enclave. For a quick bite, try food truck park Lote 23, where we especially love the Revolución es Orden sando at Pernilería los Próceres, with juicy, pull-apart pork topped with radish slices, cilantro, crispy plantain chips, and crunchy cracklings. Básico Juguería at 318 de Diego Avenue is great for cold-pressed juices and vegan/vegetarian meals made with produce sourced from local farms. For the caffeine-minded, Hacienda San Pedro is right next door, featuring beans from their fourth-generation family farm in Jayuya. And right across the street is the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, with a large selection of Puerto Rican art, ranging from the seventeenth century to the twenty-first.
Best Newcomer – Vianda
1413 Ponce de León Avenue
Opened right before Hurricane María, Vianda is Chef Francis Guzmán’s (Range, Blue Hill, The Modern) first solo restaurant, recently named one of New Worlder’s Best New Restaurants of 2018. The menu focuses heavily on creative and refined re-interpretations of Puerto Rican dishes. Menus are seasonal and based on the availability of local produce and ingredients, so they change frequently.
Best Creative Cuisine - Gallo Negro
1107 Ponce de León Avenue
Creative cocktails and an inventive menu by Chef María Grubb, which changes every season (though some signature dishes are always kept). Definite musts: KFC (Korean Fried Chicken), Pato a la Quince (mushroom risotto topped with seared duck breast and a ginger-acerola sauce), and the 99Cent Menu at the bar (Wed-Fri, from 6-8pm).
La Placita
La Placita is a destination in and of itself. Roughly gathered around the central hub of the Plaza del Mercado on Dos Hermanos Street, this area is full of restaurants and bars. Built in 1914, by day the marketplace is one of the few remaining open farmer’s markets on the island, selling fruit, vegetables, flowers, fish, and meats in its many stalls. Come evening, the bars and restaurants that border the plaza open their doors to the nightlife. Start your night with fiery Thai food at Mai Pen Rai on 303 Canals street, and then head out to the Placita itself, with salsa dancing in the street on Thursdays and Fridays. The crowd is mostly local, and the vibe is friendly. Parking can be somewhat difficult to figure out, though there is a good selection of lots in the area. For a more upscale dining experience in a beautiful environment, try Santaella at 219 Canals Street—headed by José Santaella, it’s creative, contemporary criollo, paired with on-point cocktails.
Best Tiki Bar - Jungle Bird
254 Canals Street
Mid-century modern fans will need only take one glance at the neon sign to know that this is their go-to bar in San Juan. Named after a classic concoction of the Kuala Lumpur Hilton, the bar features on-point décor and mixology in true Tiki spirit. This means rum, and lots of it! Though it’s a little way off la Placita er se, it’s a hidden gem with a rotating menu.
Best Creative Criollo – José Enrique
176 Calle Duffaut
The first Puerto Rican to be chosen as a semi-finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef South” category, José Enrique opened his eponymous restaurant in 2007, focusing on local ingredients and creative takes on classic criollo food. The menu is written out daily on a whiteboard, as dishes can make it on at the last minute, thanks to a purveyor calling with particularly fresh sardines or juicy mangoes.
Best Late-Night Drinks - La Penúltima
1359 Ponce de León Avenue
Great for their creative cocktails, and solid bar food, this fairly recent addition to the neighborhood has a definite hipster vibe to it, especially as the night wanes on. Whether it’s the Sam Ross bourbon-based “Paper Plane,” the “Cheap Thrills” with fresh guava, their curated selection of beers on tap, or the classic combo of a Schaeffer and shot of Puerto Rican rum, Penúltima has a little something for almost everybody. The bar is on the corner of Ponce de León Avenue and Canals Street, and a great place to either start or end your night, or both.
La Loíza
Once a haven for immigrants from the Dominican Republic and the lesser Antilles, Loíza Street has experienced a rebirth in the past decade. Between pawn shops, discount stores, beauty salons, and barbershops, there are now vintage stores, design boutiques, and craft bars. Just 1.5 miles long, more and more young entrepreneurs have been drawn to its cheap rents and gritty vibe, and it’s fast become one of the trendiest areas in San Juan, and a culinary destination in its own right.
Punto Medio at 1762 Loíza Street is a charming coffee shop with regular Friday showcases for local indie musicians and performers. TresBé, almost right across the street at 1765 Loíza, is a three-business food court: choose between the central eatery focused on light bites (Tresbé), the sushi joint (2Palillos), or the coffee shop (Café con Cé). They also host block parties every few months, so make sure to check out their Facebook page for details. Acapulco down the block at 2021 Loíza is, hands-down, the best taquería in Puerto Rico— try the Cochinita Pibil, Al Pastor, or the Lengua (beef tongue). Or try them all, as tacos can be ordered individually and are the size of about three-four good bites, so you can taste every filling. The green chilaquiles are also delicious for brunch. And for a relaxed Sunday morning, we love Café Regina, which though technically not on Loíza street, offers delicious coffee and a good-sized menu, with partnerships with other local vendors and produce by organic farmers on island. Stop by for pastries or cookies by Lucía Patisserie, or ice cream by Vía Láctea. For vegans, the Dreamcatcher Inn offers breakfast and brunch every day, with gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan options—and it’s also a beautiful place to stay, next to the beach with a decidedly bohemian feel.
Best GastroPub - La Coctelera
1857 Loíza Street
The premier spot for craft cocktails on Loíza Street, and voted Best Restaurant Bar at 2017’s Nightclub & Bar Awards. Standouts include the “Tesla” (served in a light bulb, it’s made with vodka, Genever, limoncello, tonic, and fresh lemon juice), and the “Monkey See, Monkey Do,” with local rum, banana liqueur, bitters, and Mexican chocolate. Food is excellent as well, and true to the gastropub concept.
Best Italian - Bocca Osteria Romana
1959 Loíza Street
The Salvatore brothers’ passion project, Bocca showcases authentic Italian food in a simple atmosphere. The main menu is relatively small and focuses on their fresh, homemade pasta--but there are daily specials and seasonal risottos which we highly recommend. The Gnocchi alla Sorrentina are phenomenal, as is the Carbonara, and the Ravioli stuffed with pear and Gorgonzola. For dessert, make sure to order the Tiramisú.
Dorado
Home to ConsumersAdvocate.org, Dorado is just 15 miles west of San Juan, a quick 30-minute drive along either the highway or scenic coastal route. A golf haven with rolling greens, one of which is part of the luxurious and newly refurbished Dorado Beach Resort, a Ritz Carlton Reserve, Dorado also has beautiful beaches and a lovely town center. The foodscape is varied, ranging from beachside bars, kiosks, food trucks, and fondas, to high-end options such as the best sushi on the island. Some Fridays you’ll find us at Vagón for after-work tacos and beers, or at Pirilo's for pizza. And of course, the whole office has coffee runs at Cuatro Sombras' Dorado location.
Best Sushi on the Island – Positivo Sandbar
Dorado Beach Ritz Carlton Reserve
Just steps from the beach, its fresh fish and seafood, ceviche, creative maki rolls, and sushi make open-air restaurant Positivo a must-visit in Dorado. The cocktails are delicious, as well, inspired by the natural beauty of the island, leaning towards rum, naturally, though there is something for everybody.
Notable mention – COA
Dorado Beach Ritz Carlton Reserve
Highlighting its bespoke wood-burning oven, newly-opened COA is an interpretation of the grill concept, with a fresh, farm-to-table ethos. Indeed, the restaurant takes its name from the Taíno word for a fire-hardened wood tool used similarly to a shovel, crucial to the development of agriculture on the island. We particularly recommend COA’s tapas menu, to pair with one of the largest wine lists in the Caribbean, or its well-curated selection of rums and other spirits.
And, for a better idea of just where these are all located, we made a handy map for you.