In-Depth Reviews of the Most Popular Eye Creams on the Market

Why Aging is First Reflected in the Eyes

It’s an old adage that “the eyes are the window to the soul”, but they certainly weren’t talking about fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes when they said it. Nevertheless, it’s true that your eyes are where your age is first reflected. As we explained above, your skin loses collagen and elastin as you get older, which causes wrinkles to appear and your skin to sag.

This outcome is compounded by the effect of our facial expressions. There are 43 muscles in the face, all of which work together to make us smile, laugh, frown, or cry. The orbicularis oris muscles surround the mouth and create the parenthetical creases commonly called “laughter lines,” while the orbicularis oculi control the eyelids and cause crow’s feet to appear in the outer corners of the eyes.

One celebrity-endorsed way of avoiding wrinkles caused by facial expressions is to avoid smiling! Of course, most people will find this strategy impossible to do and possibly ill-advised—first, it’s often an involuntary response and second, smiling can actually make you happier. But there are some ways of slowing the progress of facial aging. The key may rest with eye creams, but not in the way you think.

The Mechanics of Skin Aging

Skin aging can be divided into two processes: intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. 

Intrinsic aging happens naturally as you get older. Our skin can be broadly divided into two layers, the epidermis, which is the skin we can see, and the dermis, which lies just beneath. These two layers are united by various cells and structures that give skin its tight and plump appearance when we’re younger. 

With time, however, the connections between the epidermis and the dermis get weaker. Our dermis lose collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, molecules that give our skin its structure. Skin loses elasticity, or the ability to bounce back to its natural position when pushed or pulled. When these changes start to happen, sometimes as young as the age of 30, we start to see wrinkles and sagging. In the eyes, these are crow’s feet and lines of expression.

Intrinsic aging also changes the texture of the skin, making it rougher and duller. Skin retains less moisture, making it look drier.

No matter how many creams or treatments we use, the signs of intrinsic aging will always be there in one way or another. It’s simply part of being human.

The term “extrinsic aging”, on the other hand, describes the way external agents make our skin age prematurely. Some of these factors are sun exposure (also known as photoaging), pollution, poor diet, smoking, and excessive alcohol consumption. 

Photoaging is the most important cause of premature cutaneous aging; in fact, some studies suggest it’s responsible for 80% of facial aging. Exposure to ultraviolet light damages the structures of the dermis, speeding up the appearance of wrinkles and sagging as we described earlier. 

Sun exposure doesn’t affect everyone in the same way. People with higher amounts of melanin in their skin are protected from photoaging more than their fairer-skinned counterparts. Melanin, a skin pigment molecule produced by melanocyte cells in the epidermis, is responsible for freckles and darker skin tones. Melanin acts as a “broadband UV absorbent”, meaning it neutralizes many UV rays before they can penetrate the skin and cause damage. This is the scientific basis for the folk belief that people with darker skin show fewer signs of aging.

The good news is that, by its very nature, premature aging is preventable. One simple thing you can do which can have a major impact is regularly applying sunscreen on your face. Dr. Zakia Rahman, a dermatologist and clinical professor at the Stanford University School of Medicine, recommends mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as its main ingredient. She favors physical sunscreen over traditional sunscreen formulas that feature ingredients that may disrupt your estrogen or testosterone levels. Using protective clothing, hats that cover the face, and sunglasses with UV protection can also help prevent the signs of aging on the face.

Can Skin Aging Be Reversed?

As of right now, there is no cream, lotion, or potion in the world that can reverse aging. Though science is making leaps towards being able to extend our lifespan, turning back the clock on our bodies is impossible.

That doesn’t mean there’s nothing you can do about those wrinkles. There are several compounds and molecules which have been proven to improve the appearance of our skin by stimulating the production of collagen, reducing the signs of photoaging, and increasing hydration. Below, we go over some common eye cream ingredients that are backed by science.

Retinoids

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A that help regenerate skin cells. Retinol can be found in many face creams off the shelf, while tretinoin—also known as all-trans retinoic acid—is sold by prescription under the name Retin-A. Another retinoid, adapalene, is available with a prescription as Differin. 

“[Retinoids] work by reducing the effects of ultraviolet light on the skin to stimulate collagen production,” said Dr. Rahman. You may remember that loss of collagen is one of the reasons why wrinkles form in the dermis layer of the skin. According to Dr. Rahman, using creams that contain retinoids help reduce visible lines and also hyperpigmentation that may appear as dark circles under the eyes.

Vitamin C and Other Antioxidants

As one of the most powerful antioxidants known to man and a major collagen synthesizer, vitamin C plays a key role in reducing the signs of aging. Also known as ascorbic acid or ascorbate, vitamin C promotes collagen formation in the skin by stimulating the fibroblasts in the dermis.

Its antioxidant properties are also beneficial because they help remove oxidant molecules that can prematurely age skin. Those molecules are commonly called “free radicals”, and they’re caused by a number of environmental factors like pollution and sun exposure. Free radicals bind to cells and keep them from working normally, which can lead to premature aging.

Vitamin C helps neutralize and eliminate free radicals and reduces oxidative damage, especially when paired with vitamin E.

Other powerful antioxidants are caffeine, coenzyme Q10, and ferulic acid. According to a book chapter on skin aging by Leslie Baumann, Edmund Weisberg, and Steven L. Percival, what these molecules have in common is that they’re highly effective in reducing the effect of ultraviolet exposure, which can trigger the generation of free radicals that damage the skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs, are used as skin peeling agents and to treat the appearance of acne. Some studies have also found that they’re useful for reducing chronic dryness as well as hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure. Some AHAs are lactic acid, citric acid, and glycolic acid.

While they’re seen as very effective for reducing the signs of photoaging, you should be careful how you use products containing alpha-hydroxy acids. For one thing, they make your skin more sensitive to light, which means you could suffer sunburn if you go outside without proper sun protection. Also, you should do a patch test on your arm before applying them on your face, since they may cause irritation and burning on sensitive skin. 

However, when used correctly, AHAs can be very effective.

Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu)

Peptides are a type of molecule similar to proteins. Copper peptide specifically is a molecule that’s been shown in studies dating back to the 1970s to have a great ability to stimulate tissue repair and the production of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan, all of which are important for maintaining toned and moisturized skin.

Using products with copper peptide, which is sometimes referred to as GHK-Cu, could help reduce skin thinning, improve the firmness and elasticity of your skin, reduce roughness, and relieve the signs of photoaging. 

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a type of glycosaminoglycan, which is naturally produced by the skin. It helps the skin retain its elasticity by saturating it with water. However, its rate of synthesis goes down as we get older, so supplementing our skincare routine with products that contain hyaluronic acid is ideal.

For Dr. Rahman, hyaluronic acid is an excellent temporary solution, since the effect tends to fade with time. “[Hyaluronic acid] tends to work best on skin that's already moist so it can help trap in that moisture,” she said. “The first thing that you can do after washing is put on a hyaluronic acid cream that can help temporarily plump the skin and reduce the signs of aging.”

Temper Your Expectations

We encourage you to always read the ingredient list and make sure the cream you’re thinking about buying actually has the ingredients it needs to give you the benefits you’re looking for. That said, it’s important to know what is and isn’t possible.

An eye cream cannot make you look ten years younger and it can’t eliminate your wrinkles wholesale. It can reduce their appearance by moisturizing your skin, which makes it look plumper and makes the wrinkles less prominent. Creams can improve the texture of your skin by making it look less rough, which may make you look younger, and they can help with age spots and other instances of hyperpigmentation as long as they are on a surface level.